Our first stop is the beachfront Alila Manggis at the island's unspoilt east coast. Designed in the style of a traditional Balinese house, it is nestled in a coconut grove in the shadow of Mount Agung with rooms looking out on the tranquil Indian Ocean. Its real gem is the east Balinese Cooking School. The hotel's affable executive chef Nyoman Santika shows us around his blooming organic garden set in verdant rice paddy fields and after a visit to the bustling Klungkung village market to buy spices and fresh fruit and vegetables, we return to learn how to create popular Indonesian dishes such as chicken satay with peanut sauce, tofu curry and nasi goreng. Afterwards, we enjoy the fruits of our labour.

One particular resort which serves as a best representation of eastern Bali is the Alila Manggis. Situated in the Karangasem regency, the journey here will take about two hours from the airport. The establishment has a perfect balance between in-house relaxation activities as well as discovery activities that take guests on a journey quite different from the norm. Alila Manggis is all about promoting the best in nature, culture and relaxation. Here you can enjoy the amenities of a fine resort and still venture out to experience Bali life.

Beyond the fleshpots at Kuta, beyond the airport, even beyond Bali's sacred mountain to the east is a realm of weaving villages and water palaces, rice paddies and coconut groves. Alila Manggis is escapism incarnate, its thatched pavilions edging a shady pool. People go for peace, not partying and the cookery school is a big draw along with fishing trips and market jaunts. There's a spa, of course and the staff scurry at your whim.