A Royal Feast for Festivities

One of the great experiences when visiting any foreign destination is being able to take part in one or more of that place’s timeless traditions. When that tradition happens to revolve around really great food, then that experience can become even more memorable and truly special.

One of the world’s most unique ceremonial meals is the megibung, a communal celebratory feast that has its origins in East Bali and the nearby island of Lombok. It is, in fact, believed that the very first megibung was held on Lombok. But the Balinese would be quick to point out that while it may have originated there, those first megibung feasts were held by the Balinese.

The first megibung reportedly took place the year a small contingent of Karangasem warriors (Karangasem is Bali’s eastern most regency) invaded Lombok's Sasak kingdom. I Gusti Anglurah Ketut Karangasem, the ruler of Karangasem, led the charge and was also the innovator of this very smart ritualistic feast. Some historians, however, argue that the megibung predates King I Gusti Anglurah Ketut Karangasem. They say it was originally a feast centered around pre-Hindu religious ceremonies, seen as a way of the Gods sharing the food offered to them with the humans who created it.

The megibung is, more than anything else, a collective meal in which all who take part are considered equal. In a society defined by hierarchies and caste systems, for a ruler to declare that during this feast, all are equal, must have been considered, by his people, a wonderful gesture. And on his part, a smart strategic move. It must have certainly ensured loyalty and devotion.

I Gusti Anglurah Ketut Karangasem would have his soldiers join him in sharing his food and drink. The king would sit on the ground beside his men. History will note that, while outnumbered, I Gusti Anglurah Ketut Karangasem and his men were able to conquer the island of Lombok. Whether or not the megibung directly contributed to this victory is anyone’s guess. But to this day, the tradition has become an ever-present one in Eastern Bali.

Of course, these days, the megibung has shed its militaristic links. A megibung is now held during any and every important ceremony. Traditionally, all married men who are taking part in the feast are responsible for the preparation of the meal (nice to be a lady sometimes, no?). Dishes change depending on the season and the various tastes of the guests attending. But more often than not, there will be at least six to eight (or even more) different dishes, all served on a large platter around a mound of rice. Most commonly, dishes would include two kinds of lawar (minced vegetables mixed with shredded boiled pig skin and blood), four kinds of satay, at least one kind of soup, and two kinds of salad and pork sausage. In modern versions such as the one served at Alila, additional items could range from slow-cooked duck (bebek betutu) to steamed banana leaf parcels (brengkes), sweetcorn fritters, or even a duck liver salad with snow peas.

This holiday season, Alila Manggis and Alila Ubud are taking great pride and extra special care in presenting their own luxe versions of the megibung. The food will be meticulously prepared under the expert care of the two resorts’ head chefs. They have promised not to overly modernize or “westernize” the dishes. Their goal is to provide their guests with an authentic and very memorable culinary experience. At the same time, they will ensure comfort. Instead of sitting on the floor in small circles, guests will dine on long, sumptuously laid out tables. As per the Alila way, everything will be both perfect and surprisingly unexpected.

One of the more amusing aspects of the megibung is that the meal, while egalitarian, is ruled by strict customs. One such is that it is forbidden to make loud noises during one’s meal. This extends not just to speaking loudly or laughing but, according to villagers, burping, sneezing and farting. Thankfully, we’re a tad more relaxed at Alila.

The two meals will be taking place on Christmas day at Alila Manggis in the royal place of Amlapura while being entertained by the palace’s own dance troop. Another will be held on 2 January 2010 at Alila Ubud. For more info on the megibung feasts being held over the holiday period, please contact Alila Ubud at ubud@alilahotels.com or Alila Manggis at manggis@alilahotels.com

Discover the many glories of Bali unveiled during this festive season at Alila Ubud or myriad of other unique and exciting experiences at Alila Manggis

Teaser: 

One of the great experiences when visiting any foreign destination is being able to take part in one or more of that place’s timeless traditions. When that tradition happens to revolve around really great good, then that experience can become even more memorable and truly special. Discover one of the world’s most unique ceremonial meals – Megibung.

Date: 
03 November 2009